B and D – On the Road

Glacier – Going to the Sun Road

We set an alarm and got up extra early to head into the park to drive all the way across using the Going to the Sun Road. Unfortunately it is still a little smokey but it doesn’t look like that is going to get any better the rest of the week.

Entrance Sign into park

By the time we go to the park there was already a line at the gates.     We really wanted to go to Logan’s Pass as we had been told that is one of the best places to get in a short hike and see some animals.  Since that was our aim we did not do lots of stopping on the way to the pass.  Lots of cars and the pull outs were pretty full so good thing we had no plans for stopping.  Finally made it to Logan’s Pass but no luck getting in as the parking lot was full and they had rangers waving everyone past.  They do not even allow you to drive through the parking lot.  I guess if you are lucky and happen to pull up when someone is coming out at the exit they might let you  get in to look for a spot.   That is so different from the last time we came here in 2017.   It was the end of September and we had driven into the park from the east side as the west was closed because of the smoke from wildfires.  We drove to Logan’s pass and had the parking lot to ourselves.   We did not do a hike that time as it started snowing while we were sitting in car.  It was snowing so hard you could not see the building.     It did not last long but we decided to skip any hiking. 

Since we could not get into the parking lot we headed on out to the east entrance and made stops along the way.   One of our first stops was to visit a restroom, vault toilets as they call them here.  Lots of cars at the pull out but we found a spot and got out and headed to the restroom and there were lots of people looking across the road talking about a bear.  We thought they were all there watching the bear so headed up to the restroom and come to find out that was the line to the restroom, so we turned around and got our cameras and stood in line with everyone else.   Everyone else that came up did the same thing, went to the front of the line only to  discover it was a line not people bear watching.   Got lots of photos of the bear as he worked his way down the side of the mountain having lunch.  

Bear across road from the rest room
View in direction of bear
Close up view of bear
Close up view of bear

We stopped at one point where you can see Jackson Glacier. This glacier along with the others in the park are slowly getting smaller.

Jackson Glacier
Jackson Glacier

Also stopped at the view point for Goose Island which is supposed to be the most photographed spot in the park. 

Goose Island
Goose Island
Goose Island

Other stops were for various peaks, a few waterfalls and views of the valleys.

Glacier at top of mountain

The ice at the top almost looks like a maple leaf.

Close up of glacier

When we got to the other side of the park we stopped and had a snack in the visitor area. There was a platform built for birds and there was a pair of Osprey in the nest.

Osprey Nest at visitor center at St. Mary
Close up of Osprey Nest at visitor center at St. Mary

We then decided to drive up to the Many Glacier entrance that is further north.  After returning from Many Glacier we decided to find a late lunch in the little town of St. Mary which is at the east entrance of the park.  We won’t ever try that again.  We eventually found a little basically food stand that sold Mexican food and you sat outside on picnic tables.   However they were out a significant amount of the items on the menu.   Bruce had a taco salad and I had chips and salsa.  Apparently business are already starting to close for the season and ones that are open are not ordering more supplies but are just trying to use up what they have on hand. A lot of the places close at the end of September but we have seen a few RV parks saying they stay open until the end of October.

We managed to kill enough time that we figured the parking lot at Logan’s Pass might be more open so we headed back into the park. Our other option would have been to drive around the outside of the park to get back to the west side.  We had driven that route when we were here before and it had very pretty scenery.  It is about 30 miles longer but actually does not take more time than driving across the park as you are on highways with higher speed limits.   

Made more stops to view the sights and finally made it to Logan’s Pass and were able to get a parking spot.  The rangers were no longer there directing traffic, you were on your own to circle the lot until a spot freed up.  We walked up to the sign for the continental divide and then took a short walk on a trail behind the visitors center.  

Continental Divide

You can actually walk out to a mountain if you walk the 1 1/2 mile trail but by this point we were tired and it was around 5:00.   Took some photos of the area and the trail they have built to the mountain.

View at Logan’s Pass
View of trail behind Logan’s Pass
One of the views along the road

We then headed back to towards the west entrance again making stops to look at the sights. 

View along road
View along road
View along road
View along road

There is only one switch back on this road and it is almost like doing a U-turn in the road. There are also two tunnels. It is just amazing how they got the road built.

Tunnel
One of the tunnels

At some of the areas the trees were starting to turn red and yellow and we got a chance to get real close to a pretty red one.

Leaves starting to turn

We had skipped stopping at Lake McDonald on the way up so we spent a little time around the lake. We decided to turn off on the road that goes on the back side of the lake which is not one that is normally used. Shortly after turning on the road we came across a mule deer in the edge of the road by a stream. He must be used to people as he calmly stood just looking at us.

Mule Deer
Mule Deer

The road around the lake on the back side is a dirt road and you can only go a few miles before it is blocked off. They had a fire there earlier during the year and it is considered dangerous to continue because of all the burned trees.

View from backside of Lake McDonald
View of burned trees on backside of Lake McDonald

When we returned from this drive we saw the deer again but he was out in a sunnier locaiton.

Mule Deer

Once back on the main road around the lake we stopped to check out the views. The water is crystal clear and you can see all the beautiful rocks in the bottom of the lake.

Rocks in Lake McDonald seen through the water
Rocks in Lake McDonald seen through the water

The view across the lake was very smoky in some of the areas. At one point there was a tour boat on the lake and you could hear the guide talking but you could barely make out the shape of the boat.

View of Lake McDonald

When we got back we decided to just stop at one of the little shops  right before the entrance of the park to grab a  bite to eat as we were both to tired to cook. Overall a nice day just a little crowded with people. Later in September is better in terms of crowds but things outside of the park are mostly closed. If you come too early in the year the problem is the Going to the Sun Road might be closed. We visited once in late June and the road was not yet open through the park, you could only get as far as Lake McDonald. They had a lot of late snow and told us it would be mid July before the roads would be open.